The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on